NEO-PUNK BEAUTY

By NAMIN CHO

Since the emergence of the fashion industry’s love affair with punk, the relationship has been often questioned as being an ironic and paradoxical one. Perhaps instead it should be called a one sided crush – with designers of all levels, from emerging new names to established couture houses, taking on an unhealthy obsession with this new kid on the block, who is either oblivious or shunning the attention. As an industry that is dominated by commercial concerns, it did appear like an exploitation of a movement which had derived from ideas of anarchy and chaos, but whatever the inside story might be, designers have really managed to take the inspiration and make something special of their own.

It has taken beauty and makeup a few seasons to loosen the grip on the heavy black eyeliners and outgrow style figures such as Nancy Vicious or Siouxsie Sioux, but they finally made it with AW 10. The new Neo-Punk faces of the season drew influences from different branches of punk, presenting a balance of soft and tough original looks.

Proenza Schouler’s girls came with fresh natural looking skin, grubbed down with a touch of grungy grease ridden locks and vamped up with wine stain lips. The McQ AW 10 look book also placed emphasis on dark lips – an almost black brown – but there were cyber punk connotations in the blue highlights and multiple bun up do. These simple changes inthe hair styling reminds the viewer of references further than simply punk, such as perhaps a Philip K. Dick novel or Juliette Lewis’ sci-fi, rock star, character in the film Strange Days. If you aren’t keen on the unwashed and tousled mane, try twisting little sections of your hair into mini buns, and play around with the ‘layout’ – try out symmetrical, along the crown, down the parting, or just total chaos!

If you’re an eye makeup addict, there’s no need to worry - it’s not just about the pout, but it might be time to ease off the pencil and pick up the brush. The mainstay colour is still black, but texture wins over solid. Gradient eyes were seen at Zac Posen and Jean Paul Gaultier, horizontal wispy strokes creating shading which was especially feather light at the latter. Chanel recreated a stencil effect, with eyes which looked like they had been repeatedly stamped on by a dried out brush. The important lesson from these runway looks is to accentuate the eyes without resorting to a solid line. Use markmaking and shading techniques as you would do to render a 3d object on a piece of paper.

In the spirit of true punk, why not revolt against the thousand pound leather biker jackets and the latest studded and spiked designer IT bag , by creating your next Neo-Punk face for a steal? Forget the bronzer, concealer, powder and all the cover uppers – it’s not about perfection so just let the little blemishes and oiliness shine through. It’s all about making a statement, so whether it’s your stare or snarl you want to emphasize, concentrate on the application techniques and go for a budget option. For the eyes, there are many great affordable pigments, such as Dazzle Dust from Barry M (£4.50 apot) and Medusa's Make-Up Eye Dust ($6 a pot). And remember, this is not punk, but the Neo-Punk face – so make up your own rules!