Valentino AW 11/12 Couture
The spring airyness of Botticellis Primavera seamed to underline Valentino’s 2012 couture collection with faded hues of cream, antique pink and mint. This was weighed down by the structured severity of Edwardian wear and the interior décor of that era. Velvet was reminiscent of decadent velvet curtains and so did the fringe rimming. Mythical Grace inspired chiffon drapered tunics had fragile semi translucent flower embroidery and were paired with braided flower crowns evoking images of forest nymphs.
Severity was also introduced through the tailored cut, over lapping and oriental collars. Tapestry like floral patterns where created by silky forms vines aboard the mutt of velvet.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion.
Posted by: Tuli Litvak
Jean Paul Gaultier AW 11/12 Couture
Gaultier’s couture 2012 collection too, found fundamental inspiration in the roaring twenties , which blurred the strict past century divisions between feminine and masculine .In sync with this androgynous aspect, present also in Chanel’s couture collection, Gaultier refreshingly presented both men and women looks, which often intertwined. Utilitarian tone was introduced in the mainly dark subdued colour scheme and via fullengh trench coats on both men and women. Elements of aviator coat influenced the trench’s leather fabric choice and fur rimmed collars. A more luxurious tone seeped through as some of the coats geared more towards lux black on black pinstripe robes.
The 20’s flashy sequins, flapper fringe, feather plumed headpieces and boas and Schiaparelli styled robey drape gowns, where clashingly combined with the austere air of Edwardian attire, with it’s restrictive collars and duffle cloaks.
Crinoline structure got a contemporary twist as it was revealed under translucent fabric whilst the ribbing was suggested by fur line trimming. As women wore trench oversized coats men’s wear got a feminine makeover as the models paced down in see-through lace pants, binding bustier that attached themselves to a long fringed cloaks, ruffle feather embroidered skirts. and head to toe floral print.
All these gradually led to one of the final looks which summed and culminated it in a new take on his signature feminine Madonna bra. Synced with the collection, the models shaved head introduced it with a masculine air.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion.
Posted by: Tuli Litvak
Givenchy AW 11/12 Couture
Still embodying the white aesthetic he used as backdrop to his tropical flora in the latest menswear collection, Tisci proclamation he was beguiled by purity for this Paris 2012 couture collection. The blissful elaborately handcrafted stream gowns defiantly reflected his celestial inspiration. Translucent chiffons were draped into floor swiping hems, occasionally as pleated, strewed by tear like delicate pearls and beads, in a take on the nodule patterns on ostrich skin. Ostrich feathers where tightly lined into fur like peplums descending from the waist down while duck plumage created high rising aristocratic collars.
Another dress consisted of tiny tightly lined silk ruffles reminiscent of the cable nit texture of sweaters in his latest womenswear collection, while another bore scale or angel wing like pleats overlapping into circular forms and heaved over the shoulder and onto the sleeves. Delicate cream and rustic gold leaf embroidery seemed to be taken straight out of Eden, to frame dress busts and appliquéd itself onto hems. Screen like fringe dabbled down the waist and from matching clutches.
Even in the realm of couture where painstaking handwork is standard, the adroit craftsmanship of the gowns soar far above, and shone in the truely Haute manner.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion.
Posted by: Tuli Litvak
Chanel AW 11/12 Couture
In Chanel’s AW 12 couture collection, the Paris runway literally transcended into a wintery wonderland as snow flakes descended from the ceiling tracing the garments with shimmering specs, contrasting against darker fabrics, as if to high-lighten the collections black and white colour scheme, but this didn’t end up carrying with it a fairytale air, but a darker tone. The androgynous theme we’ve been encountering lately, with the increasing number of clothing collections geared to both men and women, was apparent. The classic chic Chanel women, with the bouclé wool skirt suit, had been encountered with seemingly contradicting styles. The accessories for instants, starting with rock and roll reminiscent glovelettes, to the bowler hats, lined with bulging black fringe that in sync with the theme, echoed the pixie cut iconic to Liza Minnelli. The jazzy influence trickled down to wingtips attached to a couple of the edgy knee high boots.
The traditional skirt suit was carried out in both key colours, always mirroring the contrasting tone, through detailing, a lined trim for instance, or alternatively combining the two through tweed patterns.
The timeless Chanel jacket undertook numerous alterations. Feminine peplum detail was applied to several looks, while others transformed into variants on the masculine associated dinner jacket, either trimmed or in a full length coat form. Black collar bows occasionally evoked a tie but when paired with a dress seemed to enhance a dolled effect. Oversized cuts where reiterated throughout the collection, blurring the natural curves of the female body. Enhancing was also evident in details, enlarged coat pockets or expanding trouser hems off kilttered convention.
The 20’s seemed like a befitting decade to emulate the slight androgyny of the collection, as some would claim it marked the beginning of women liberation, this applied to the collection in flapper fringe detailing.
Layered Ruffles where another recurring element, sometimes structured to create bubble volume, at times as organza attached to body enveloping pencil dresses or skirts, veering outward in a cone like manner, or creating exaggerated collars. With these the collection bore an alternative party scene to the jazzy 20’s, evoking pierrot clowns and 16th century Venetian masquerade balls. The solitary lace visors, appliquéd feather motifs, sequins and feather frills all played note to this tone, together with a shift towards periodic inspired silhouettes.
This couture season Chanel aired together with it’s Savoir-faire crafted couture collection, questions regarding fundamental identities, applicable both towards their own style basis and both to gender identity, and by doing so proved once again to be as relevant as ever, or in fact, timeless.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion .
Posted by: Tuli Litvak
