Opening with a basic black and red outfit, everyone might have thought it would just be a regular menswear fashion show. Yet, this presentation by Alexis Mabille proved menswear could explore new territory while maintaining sophistication and charisma.
Embracing flamboyant dandyism, this time he paid a lot of attention to accentuating the waistline with belts added and jackets tailored in a slim cut that shows off the waist. Laces also appeared in his collection together with tied trousers legs to create ruffles that explored a different dimension of men’s fashion. While incorporating some feminine designs into the show, he still balanced it off with a loosely fitted jacket.
Mabille also showcased some bowtie decorations that went alongside with the buttons on shirts that added a touch of regality. Elements like the print of playing cards and the soldier like jackets hinted at characters you may see alongside Alice in the Wonderland, again with the combination of impeccable tailoring and endless imagination.
Image source: NowFashion
Posted by: Hester Lo
Thom Browne AW 11/12
In the run-up to the couture shows, Thom Browne’s flair for the theatrical seemed somewhat fitting. Pale models with powdered faces, and the odd beauty mark, sat around a heaving banquet table harked back to America’s founding fathers of the 18th century. The models took it in turns to make their way around the table which was inexplicably covered with taxidermied wildlife, as well as food.
Sticking rigidly to the conceptual, Browne showed white Aran knit snoods which acted as powdered wigs whilst simple leather shoes were either laced up or adorned with Pilgrim-esque buckles. Accessories were almost like props in this elaborate show; walking sticks, stiff black leather doctor’s bags, cross-body satchels, leather or suede gloves and exaggerated round sunglasses as well as smaller ones reminiscent of Thomas Jefferson.
The palette was monochromatic with a hint of the patriotic which could be seen most obviously in the occasional red, white and blue strip of fabric on the waist of a coat, in a model’s hair or attached as a stirrup to trousers, a nod to 18th century Americana from which Browne took his inspiration.
The collection played with layering different winter textures and clashing various plaids and checks; mohair jackets were given knit sleeves, top hats were made of feathers or felt, velvet jackets and wool coats were given leather trim and there were wool headbands and cable knit scarves aplenty.
Never one to shy away from even the least commercial aspects of a concept, Thom Browne also toyed with the parts of the era which would now be considered androgynous. Following the 18th century American aristocracy theme there were knickerbockers worn over tights, mohair skirts emblazoned with crests, and billowing shirt sleeves reined in by sleeveless suit jackets.
Images courtesy of Style.com.
Posted by: Lara Carter
ACNE AW 11/12
Moving away from their usual casual, boy-ish aesthetic, Jonny Johansson felt the Acne man was growing up and in need of a suit. Doing what Acne does best, the collection is an education in understated, minimalist, edgy cool.
In keeping with one of winter’s key themes, Johansson experimented with the lines associated with layering by cutting the top layers shorter than the layers they were obscuring, leaving more of the garments from underneath on show. Through this Acne achieved a pristine look with perfectly clean lines, yet still looked thoroughly effortless and thrown-together at the same time.
The collection was shown primarily in neutral colours mixed with brights, and several tongue-in-cheek, printed tourist sweaters. Trousers were cut on the ankle and there was an abundance of overcoats that would swamp any man, as well as low-buttoning jackets paired with both polo and shawl necks.
The patent boots with contrast soles were classic Acne and the white, hand-held bags and smaller clutches were a fitting nod to fashion’s renewed obsession with androgyny.
Posted by: Lara Carter
Yigal Azrouel AW 11/12
The overall tone of Yigal Azrouel’s AW11 collection might best be described as casualwear, with a tailoring feel. The concept was deconstructed, comfortable clothes for the relentlessly stylish man-about-town.
Suit trousers made from jersey, chinos and slouchy, slightly drop-crotch trousers reigned supreme. Double breasted cardigans and super-short skinny ties with frayed edges added to the dressed down-dressed up feel. Azrouel stuck to the classic winter palette of black, white and greys with muted greens and blues, and subtle hints of check.
The gilets and short sleeve knits worn over long sleeve shirts made playful, easy layering an obvious theme which also played into the mixing of go-to winter textures such as wool and leather. Shearling also still had a big presence on the catwalk both on lapels and in the form of gilets. To keep things from straying to the outright casual, waists on the more heavily layered looks were cinched in with skinny leather belts.
Outerwear accessories were exaggerated with slouchy knit hats taking on an almost turban-like look, and polo-necks were pushed to the limit in the form of shearling button-up collars.
Images courtesy of Style.com.
Posted by: Lara Carter
