COLLECTIONS

VALENTINO – PARIS FASHION WEEK SS11 COUTURE/ 26.01.11

Valentino – Paris Fashion Week SS11 Couture

Valentino’s Spring couture woman was a very soft, feminine creature. The collection was shown in a creamy palette punctuated only by the iconic Valentino red and the palest of pastels.

Pretty detailing such as subtle pleats, feathers, lace and beading were to the forefront. Almost every look was finished with a thin, wispy bow tied in at the waist, retaining some semblance of shape through the floaty layers of sheer fabric. Lengths were either floor-skimming or kept to a demure on-the-knee.

The feel was one of simple, youthful, Springtime flirtiness, however the applique flowers and saloon-girl ruffles added dimension and complexity to later looks. The models’ French braids, twisted into buns, and light makeup added to the overwhelming innocent, angelic feel of the collection.

Images courtesy of Style.com.

Posted by: Lara Carter

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JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER – PARIS FASHION WEEK SS11 COUTURE/ 26.01.11

Jean-Paul Gaultier – Paris Fashion Week SS11 Couture

The Gaultier woman was a veritable fashion chameleon, with looks ranging from sharp power suits to voluminous floor-sweeping gowns to sultry 70’s jumpsuits, and everything inbetween.
 
The only theme apparently being Gaultier’s usual go-to, rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic; all the models wore faux-hawks and inexplicably carried number cards. An extremely theatrical show, numbers 9 and 27 even smoked down the catwalk.
 
Notable influences could be seen from the 50’s, 70’s and 80’s and perhaps most of all from fictional cartoon villain Cruella De Vil, particularly in terms of the colour palette and harsh silhouette evoking a strong independent woman who would kill for fashion.
 
Highlights included an incredible leather skirt suit, beaded bolero jackets and a ruffled jailbird-esque gown sported by model-of-the-moment Lindsey Wixson.

Images courtesy of Style.com.

Posted by: Lara Carter

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GIVENCHY – PARIS FASHION WEEK SS11 COUTURE/ 25.01.11

Givenchy – Paris Fashion Week SS11 Couture

Ricardo Tisci looked to Japan for his latest couture offering, taking inspiration from toy robots and the dancer Kazuo Ohno. In keeping with this Tisci selected all Asian models to show his collection in a presentation in a grandiose salon on the Place Vendome.

The chunky heels and angular shoulders definitely gave that ‘Transformers’ feel, and there was also more of the Philip Treacy-designed, science fiction-inspired headgear as seen at Armani Prive. The silhouette from behind each look evoked a Japanese anime warrior.

However, the overall feel of the collection was much softer than that of hard-edged metal androids, beautiful bird motifs and feathers were appliquéd onto floor-skimming sheer fabric and finished with pearls and Swarovski crystals. Tisci’s palette was the colour of ‘dead flowers’ so favoured by Kazuo Ohno, this was interjected with life in the form of bright orange, pink, yellow or lime at the back of each piece.

One had to appreciate the art and craftsmanship that went in to creating the collection, over 4000 hours of sewing reportedly went into one dress alone; true couture.

Images courtesy of Style.com.

Posted by: Lara Carter

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CHANEL – PARIS FASHION WEEK SS11 COUTURE/ 25.01.11

Chanel

At Chanel SS11 couture a Nordic-like ray omitted from the clothing and enveloped the runway. Classic Chanel twin suits and coats had a more woven look than usual as it appeared craftsmanship was being subtlety revealed.

Tangled beading upon a frozen palette of tweed and metallic fabrics intertwined with the brands traditional canvas, evoked imagery of an elaborate cobweb on a frost bitten morning

Sequins in black and silver applied themselves to cuffs, collars and belts and were reminiscent of the moonlight reflecting on a lake at night. Brocade and tweed ensured Chanel’s aristocratic luxe heritage appeal remained while monochrome pieces kept in sync with the brand’s beginnings.

Washed-out cigarette pants were paired under roughened and deconstructed versions of Chanel’s signature jacket. Sheer was heavily incorporated and echoed the brands desire for ‘light’. The formalities of eveningwear were played with as evening gloves were reinterpreted in 80’s shapes and necklines veered from directional takes on scoop to boat cuts. 

This collection while a distinct nod to early 60’s evening-wear undeniably fell for the magpie instincts of the 80’s.

Images courtesy of Now Fashion.

Posted by: Susan Walsh

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