It was of course – undoubtedly – one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season, which was to see both Nicolas Ghesquière’s return to fashion and his debut collection for Louis Vuitton since Marc Jacobs left the luxury house after an impressive fourteen-year tenure at the helm of the luxury house. Those were some big shoes to fill. In place of show notes, a note from Ghesquière himself told humbly of his “immense joy at being here, in the knowledge that my stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy”. How very excited we all were as we watched on, breath bated, all eyes on Nicolas.
The setting for the presentation was noteworthy in its minimalism. Ghesquière’s intention was clear: to give to the world, without ostentation and even with a delicate touch of intimacy, his proposed new direction for the brand. The clothes indicated a carefully considered, even reserved experimentation: there was little that jarred as it came down the runway, the majority of pieces instead rather instantly appealing and then quietly powerful enough to grow on you as well. This quiet power was in the subtle Ghesquière-isation of various wardrobe staples, predominantly cut into flattering A-line silhouettes and from the most luxurious of fabrics, of course. Cue the awe-inspiring black crocodile coat. And those covetable mini trunks that were a suitable revision of a house signature. Immaculate craftsmanship paired with the designer’s talent for innovating, if somewhat restrained today (and correctly so), the result an overwhelmingly cool and desirable edit of garments in colours that were at once muted and warm.
This idea of cool was perhaps the most pertinent. Without gimmicks or spectacle, the autumn/winter ’14 collection intelligently pushed things into the realm of new, and it felt cool but resolutely grown-up. It was a refreshingly sophisticated refinement of new ideas, a modern relevance still entirely respectful of the Louis Vuitton legacy. The Ghesquière years have begun.
Image source: Style.com
Posted by: Ben Sharp
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