COLLECTIONS

DRESSCAMP – TOKYO FASHION WEEK AW14

 

The Dresscamp AW14 show was another over-the-top outing for Toshikazu Iwaya, who has established his brand’s signature fun flavour over recent seasons with vibrant designs and playful styling. Closing Tokyo Fashion Week, this collection was exemplary of the city’s unique fashion sensibility. There was no confusing this for the runways of Paris or Milan, and while it was closer to London, even the British capital would unlikely orchestrate such a specific affair. There was something quite amusing to the pimps and hoes reference, what with the textiles, those hats, the male models’ cartoon-like moustaches and the deliberately overdone hair on their female counterparts. Then there were the more modern gangsta notes, that is the hop-hop inspired streetwear pieces, epitomised in those sweaters with ‘gorgeous W’ branded across their fronts. There was a lot going on and, should the truth be told, it was at times chaotic. However, it was perfect at what it was meant to be and there were numerous great takeaway pieces that would work just as well on their own as when part of this rather particular, exaggerated aesthetic.

 

Image source: MBFWT

Posted by: Ben Sharp

AFRIQAN APEIRON – TOKYO FASHION WEEK AW14

 

Warm and vibrant textiles that harped back to the designers heritage were cut into minimalist, contemporary shapes for this season’s collection, evidently an attempt at a modern interpretation of an immediately recognisable symbol of African culture. While very little was offensive to the eye, more could have been given. The volume could have been turned up rather than down.

 

Image source: MBFWT

Posted by: Ben Sharp

YOSHIO KUBO – TOKYO FASHION WEEK AW14

 

The Yoshio Kubo boys sported cartoonish, helmet-like ‘dos which set off the commercial casualness of the collection itself to just the right level of ostentation expected at a show. This was one of the designer’s strongest collections to date, with a vibe as cool as the shades of blue that prevailed among monochromatic looks. There were solid jackets and trousers, relaxed in their tailoring; long, languid shirts that fell to just above the knee and rain ponchos which were actually really rather good and not just something to be reserved for protection against water-based rides at a theme park. The cuts played with proportions, for example in the panels of shirting fabric attached at the hem to render a layering effect, only to be emphasised by graphic linear work. Altogether very, very cool and ultimately street-ready. Commercial doesn’t need to be a dirty word.

 

Image source: MBFWT

Posted by: Ben Sharp

ARIUNAA SURI – TOKYO FASHION WEEK AW14

 

This season Ariunaa Suri presented something dark and in places quite dramatic, almost post-apocalyptic in its unrefined finishes and deliberate irregularities, which gave rise to a rough, raw energy to capture a certain mood in a palette of blacks and greys.

 

Image source: MBFWT

Posted by: Ben Sharp

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