Miu Miu’s AW12 collection pumped colourful swirls of pattern and print into masculine trouser suits. Evoking a structured seventies vibe, frock-style jackets were layered over graphic-print shirts, wide frill ties and tightly tailored trousers, and finished off with chunky platform heels in a kaleidoscope of colours.
Crafted from rich silks, cottons and suedes, the intricate patterns of the layered-up jackets, ties and shirts created a punchy print clash. Taking a fresh and fun approach to androgynous dressing, Miu Miu gave an entranced audience a feminine finish with a couple of mirror-appliquéd A-line dresses.
Image source: Style.com
Posted by: Sophia Reynolds
Opulence was the key and travelling by train the theme for Marc Jacobs’ AW12 collection for Louis Vuitton. Travelling comfortably and in style was definitely what Jacobs had in mind while creating this beautiful collection.
A-line long coats and dresses featured big flower appliqués instead of buttons that looked like jewellery. Tailored loose pants in cream and brown were paired with ladylike jackets and coats. A-line dresses were made out of matte and shiny leather patchwork with studs. Midi shiny copper or red or purple dresses were layered over loose brown pants and cropped coats. Diamond-shaped tricolour frames were seen all over brown pants, coats and dresses and jeweled flower patterns that formed frames were featured on dresses and skirts; in black on black, brown on pink and green on beige.
The last part of the show was even more opulent and featured a number of different shiny patterns and appliqués. Tear-shapes forming diamond patterns were replicated on dresses and coats in purple, gold, green, blue and red, so did big and small circles that formed different patterns on navy coats, dresses and bustiers.
The show finished with coats with the same style as the ones showed in the beginning, but made out of ostrich leather and silver and grey tweed. Jacobs’ envision of a luxurious and comfortable travel would not be complete without someone carrying your heavy luggage; big doctor-style bags in beige, black, red, navy, classic monogram and smaller purses in navy, red and black were seen on the catwalk as carried by elegant train conductors. Soft leather high top deformed hats with a fur detail in a variety of colours, black round sunglasses and high-heeled square oxfords and Mary Janes were the main accessories used. With a wardrobe like that, missing the train would be a misfortune.
Image source: Style.com
Posted by: Fani Mari
Paul & Joe’s Creative Director Sophie Albou injected a dash of British heritage into her unisex AW12 collection, by pairing oversized khaki trench coats and cable knit cardigans, with silk wide-leg trousers and glistening sequin blouses. Tones of azure blue and berry red beautifully punctuated deep khaki and oak brown hues, on strictly tailored silhouettes.
Swathes of thick tweeds, fluid siks and crushed velvets gave Albou’s slightly masculine tailoring a feminine twist. Flashes of muted leopard print, oversized leaf motifs and delicate floral lace appeared throughout the collection, adding a pretty but polished finish to Albou’s earthy-toned palette. Even the menswear line didn’t escape a structured leopard-print jacket styled with a plaited diamante belt, a directional take on Albou’s AW12 menswear collection.
Yet it was the womenswear that stole the show with sequined jackets partnered with hip-slung trousers and neat button-down blouses, and printed pyjama-style suits paired with plush velvet blazers, nipped in tightly at the waist with sparkling diamante waist belts. Comprising of stunning ready-to-wear separates Albou’s AW12 collection channeled a classic autumn in the country vibe, that is sure to be popular come September.
Image source: Style.com
Posted by: Sophia Reynolds
Following the re-launch of Paco Rabanne in September and Manish Arora’s outstanding debut collection for the house for SS12, the storied brand and its new Creative Director seem to have settled back comfortably into the Paris Week calendar, as the extravagant designer confidently presented a slightly different aesthetic for his AW12 collection; remaining still very much in line with the Paco Rabanne avant-garde ethos, only this time a greater focus was placed on practicality and wearability.
Inspired by chain mail armour, space-age silhouettes and futuristic sensibility, Arora opened the show with geometric panelling on skirts, coats and dresses, combining matte silver chain mail with taupe coloured leather for an all-over sci-fi warrior effect. Lighter tones and gun metal greys moved in next, as models emerged wearing shiny panelled skirts, a satin silver overcoat, white panelled dresses linked loosely by small metal bolts and chunky cream knits. Cobalt blue sheaths, asymmetric skirts, a pony skin tunic and a shiny striped dress with silver-blue panelling and sheer inserts came next, reminiscent of Rabanne’s bold signature pieces worn by the likes of Brigitte Bardot in the brand’s hey-day. Metal discs in gold, blue and silver, were woven into elegant cardigans, dresses and low cut tops and paired with creamy silk overlay dresses and satin trouser-suits for an updated look of everyday glamour.
To close this stunning show, Arora opted for more decadent pieces including a loose all-in-one chain mail jumpsuit, a gold metal disc sheath and beautifully embellished black evening dresses, opulently designed yet highly wearable, featuring criss-cross gold metal lattices placed over long black fur and sheer underlays, with added stud and angular sequin detailing.
Image source: Style.com
Posted by: Leja Gojkovic
