Ann Demeulemeester SS12
For SS12 the colour palette focused on a naturalistic spectrum from calf skin tan, dusty browns, beaten whites to solid black. Layering occurred in a style which melded medieval and Victorian penchants for dressing as tailored pieces juxtaposed unstructured raw forms. A suede morning coat, bolero jacket in an Eastern vein, gilet and a pea coat was just a taster for outerwear. Nehru jackets were followed by a shoulder padded variant and ruched silken sleeves extended from a round cut jacket. Looks encompassing a white tail coat, blazer, rolled up trousers, corsages, bowler hats and head wraps all heralded romanticism and embraced dandy aesthetics.
Tasselled scarves added texture and drama as they became an extension of garments. Waistcoats adhered to 18th century formalities and treaded more primitive terrain in a suede incarnation. Sheer tanks with embellished necklines brought a touch of subdued eroticism. Embroidered and buttoned culottes were caged by sheer and sarongs in these fabrics were placed over trousers. Slips were worn over clothes rather than under. Organza harem pants reignited the underlying influence of the East.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion.
Posted by: Susan Walsh
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