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J SMITH ESQUIRE – LONDON FASHION WEEK SS12/ 16.09.11

Walking through the exhibition held by the Guoman Hotels, Justin’s retrospective works from his past seven seasons are being showcased down a long and opulent hall in the Royal Horseguards hotel.

Modelled on serene faced mannequins with closed eyes but long fluttering eyelashes, each of his past pieces tells a different story whilst working harmoniously with the individual brands he has collaborated with to create something organic, that still remains true to their aesthetic.

With an impressive accumulation of high end designers to have worked with, the resulting exhibition showcases the full extent of his versatility as a designer, which is especially prominent in his commission for five bespoke hat designs for each of the Guoman properties, to be worn by the doormen at the respective hotels.

 

Downstairs in the main reception we found Justin’s SS12 couture collection. Providing a centerpiece for the room, three mannequins’ head and shoulders emerge from a mountain of black balloons, each with a different piece sitting atop their heads. Central to the display features perhaps the most impressive headdress, comprising of a pillar-box red parrot settling on top a cage-like head piece of swarovski crystals. With wings still outstretched as if just landing and such a meticulous attention to detail, I almost question whether it is a taxidermy piece, it is so life-like.

His ready-to-wear range is being modelled on the guests, featuring oversized gold-leaf feathers and drawing design elements from his couture line.

 

Images by Sam Wilson

Posted by: Lauren Whitehead

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