COLLECTIONS

J.W. ANDERSON MEN – LONDON FASHION WEEK SS12/ 21.09.11

‘Craft Goes Machine ‘ was the elusive title to J.W. Anderson’s SS12 Menswear collection, bringing to mind the philosophy of 21st Century movements such as Futurism and the modern obsession with technology.

 

A quote from Pier Paolo Passolini on the craft of the novel, the “creative act” and ruminations on death and reality headed the show invite and hinted at the epistemological questions likely to be raised in Anderson’s designs. No surprise then that the collection heavily referenced a technology-inspired aesthetic, where geometric shapes and cog-like details embellished his clothes. Cutwork tank tops featured hexagonal links that fitted together much like a mathematical drawing, themselves arranged in coloured stripes or abstract patterns that reminded me of strands of DNA.

 

A sportswear influence came through in footwear and accessories, as minimalist trainers and rucksacks offset the comparatively tailored looks. In keeping with the scientific/mathematical arrangement of Anderson’s patterns and embellishment, the collection was built upon clean lines, simple tailoring and blocks of colour – deviated from only occasionally with a striking shorts look that featured vibrant paisley-inspired prints.Tank tops, tailored shorts and soft knit sweaters from the backbone of the collection, where luxurious fabrics were key. Bold peat front trousers in an array of vivid silks were stand-out pieces, and textured mesh-like fabrics and exposed zips completed the futuristic look. The colour palette amalgamated vivid oranges and sea greens with dusty pale blue and flashes of bright white, adding a softer edge to the sportswear-inspired aesthetic that hinted at the characteristically luxurious element to Anderson’s designs.

 

Images by Katy Davies

Posted by: Jasmin Watts