Julius SS12

Whatever about the blistering sunshine outside, Julius’ summer show was all about darkness – from the pitch-black theatre space at the Maison des Métallos, to the audience’s sea of midnight-coloured layers. Tatsuri Horikawa’s label has long been a cult favourite, with only a smattering of outlets outside the designer’s native Japan, but his apocalyptic blend of weighted-down leathers and sweeping drapes has slowly yet surely been inching towards the mainstream spotlight.

And for the brand’s tenth anniversary, Horikawa looked towards an unusual source of inspiration – the maverick Iranian architect Zaha Hadid – an iconic figure in the world of design, as famous for her swirling Miyake outfits as she is for her thrilling sculptural Deconstructivist shapes.

Hadid’s influence could be seen in a more powerfully defined sense of 3-dimensionality – alongside the label’s now-trademark contoured fencing leathers and loose-hanging trousers, Horikawa sent out coats which seemed to float away from the body on an invisible frame, asymmetrical high-gloss leather gauntlets and sleeves, and knitwear with seams skewed so they twisted wildly across the torso.

Colour, as always, stayed at the dark end of the spectrum – but that made the occasional appearances of lustrous grey and intense navy blue all the more luxuriously eloquent. And Horikawa’s surprise insertion of womenswear looks injected a new note of powerfully armoured sensuality to an ongoing fashion project which is never less than intriguing.


Images courtesy of Nowfashion

Posted by: John-Michael O'Sullivan


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