Juun J SS12
By the time we’d made it to Juun J.’s show (promisingly titled “Deviated”, the sun had broken through the clouds and the glass-roofed Espace Commines started to heat up. An exuberantly-dressed audience (Givenchy’s Rottweiler-eared fur caps, Jil Sander’s citrus-bright sportswear, and Balmain’s safety-pin frenzied biker jackets all made the front row) crammed in, eager to see one of the schedule’s most consistently exciting young names in action.
You’d have been forgiven for thinking that his menacing, film-noir Winter 2011 collection would’ve been hard to top, with it’s soaring, sensationally sculptural layered outerwear. But any doubts were quickly dispelled as models in severe black bowl cuts started to stride around the space, in pristine white tailoring splintered and fractured with laser-sharp clarity, peeling and overlapping to form brilliantly executed jackets, trousers and all-in-ones. Bold punches of gold metal – cuffs clasped round wrists, sharply folded wingtip-collar necklaces and origami pocket handkerchiefs suggested a sense of machine-age futurism as the clothing palette faded gradually into soft greys and nudes with graphic streaks of black. And capping things off, Kim Kiroic’s fantastically soled shoes (simple sandal and brogue shapes anchored with remorselessly angular gold platforms) grounded the collection with a stark, dazzling flourish.
Then, as the temperature soared, the designer caught everyone off-guard with an unexpected finale – an explosion of weightless, gorgeously floaty parachute-silk parkas in a rainbow of yellow, purple, fuchsia and turquoise.
Posted by: John-Michael O'Sullivan