COLLECTIONS

PETER JENSEN – LONDON FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR/ 21.02.12

Peter Jensen, the inventive Danish designer, gave us another of his unique and original shows for AW12. Not one to resign to conformity, Jensen unveiled a sophisticated collection inspired by his close friend and collaborator, Thelma Speirs, who, together with Paul Bernstock, has for the last two decades produced stunning hats for the likes of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Madonna and Karl Lagerfeld.

 

Describing her style as “the perfect bourgeoise, were it not for the headphones over her trademark waves of grey hair,” Jensen used her look as a template for styling his girls into miniature clones of his delectable muse, with short bobbed grey wigs, heavy 60s inspired make-up, and tea cosy hats or brightly coloured flocked headphones to finish. Fusing mischievous humour with a celebratory approach to self-expression, the designer gave us a playful show of embellished collar shirts, chunky jacquard and cable knit sweaters, plaid wool trousers, quilted corduroy skirts and  baggy shell dresses, all topped with adorable bunny ear caps, made by none other than Speirs herself, incorporating Jensen’s trademark rabbit motif into the collection.

 

Always staying on the wearable side of unconventional, Tomboy jeans were paired with glitter belts and boyish shirts, whilst structured knee-length dresses were offered in a selection of brown and black velvet and chartreuse chiffon. Coats were another main feature, appearing in A-line lilacs and swinging wool plaids matched with black velvet Peter Pan collars, adding a touch of the fantastic to the prim and sensible silhouettes. Sticking primarily to a dark toned palette, made up of greys, taupes, maroons and blacks, Jensen also added a bit of 90s cool with a glittery gold fringe skirt worn over a black crepe dress. To finish, Jensen showed us his bolder side, with floor length fuschia and floral vine print skirts teamed with crisp shirts and blouses, embellished at the collar with simple white beads, leaving us with a new found penchant for all things eccentrically demure and playfully prudish.

 

Images by: Katy Davies

Posted by: Leja Gojkovic