One of the first pieces I ever wrote for Fashion156, way back in the distant days of 2009, was about the Korean designer Songzio, whose magnificently sculptural outerwear had dominated my impression of that season’s Paris shows. (And whose abstract yet sophisticatedly evocative aesthetic has made him an enduring favourite on the menswear schedule).
This time round, the designer’s focus was less on dramatically forged silhouettes – though his trademark funnel-neck coats and flatly-cut trousers were still very much in evidence – and more on a sense of quietly lyrical poeticism. Decked out in two-tone lambskin spats, giant corsages and cutaway morning coats brought the fin-de-siecle spirit of Parisian writers like Baudelaire and Rimbaud to life in the blazing light of the Maison des Metallos’ rooftop space.
And those long-ago writers’ fascination with the Orient allowed for a fertile exploration of East-meets-West cross-currents: the simple Edwardian elegance of high-collared monochromeed tailoring alternating with sweeping wraps and kimono coats bound with ceremonial sashes, followed by a descent into covetably luxurious casualwear, from near-colourless washed lambskin biker jackets to unlined tailoring and seamed grey jersey trousers.
As a whole, this was a much less fiercely abstract collection than we’ve been accustomed to seeing from Songzio: but it was clearly one imbued with a framework of historical reference that allowed the designer’s characteristically dramatic, almost Puritan vision to explore a new softer, more resonant tangent.
Images courtesy of Nowfashion.
Posted by: John-Michael O' Sullivan
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