COLLECTIONS

SEASONS

SHOWS (London Fashion Week)

DESIGNERS

TEMPERLEY LONDON – LONDON FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR/ 18.02.12

I have never considered myself a Temperley fan, despite her recent attempts to move away from the world of floaty garden frocks and into more substantial territory. But today’s show in the former headquarters of the Institution of Civil Engineers in Westminster (a venue far more glamourous than it sounds) managed to completely change my mind. The show notes described the collection as a “celebration of opulence,” and it certainly was; inspired by eighteenth century religious paintings there was also a hefty dose of Russian influence, from the Ballets Russes right through to YSL’s seminal Russian collection in 1976.

 

The result was a collection that shone literally and metaphorically (with help from Mawi and their characteristic oversize jewels). Coloured embroideries took the babushka scarf as a starting point while rich golden brocades and laser cut taffeta modernised the Slavic folklore elements that Temperley embraced. Each dress was crowned with an enormous ear-flap-free shapka for what was termed a ‘polished folk’ look, and military elements were evident in midnight blue evening gowns and gold-buttoned overcoats.

 

The arrival of a black velvet dress topped with a leopard pillbox hat brought a touch of the 40s femme fatale to the proceedings. A showstopping backless fully embellished dress looked like it could have come straight from the wardrobe archives of the Ballets Russes – or from Poiret’s interpretation of them; and it was just the first in line of a series of jewel-encrusted gowns that dripped with gems. Delicious. Just the kind of ostentation that will drive oligarch’s wives wild.

 

Image source: Style.com

Posted by: Amber Jane Butchar

MIU MIU – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

LOUIS VUITTON – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

PAUL & JOE – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

PACO RABANNE – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

JUNKO SHIMADA – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

MONCLER GAMME ROUGE – PARIS FASHION WEEK AW12 WOMENSWEAR

WELCOME TO

The magazine that showcases new emerging
fashion talent alongside the established.

Sign up below to be kept informed of all our new issues, the trends that are emerging, exclusive fashion films, and the very latest discoveries in fashion & the arts.

You will also be the first to hear about unique competitions and all Fashion156's developments.

I agree to the terms and conditions