For AW12, Yves Saint Laurent’s Stefano Pilati gave us his most seductive show to date in his final offering as Creative Director of the fashion house, sending out models in fetishistic inspired silhouettes with a prevailing dominatrix aesthetic, emphasising the power of female prowess.


Set against a burnished gold backdrop with YSL emblazoned across it, models opened the show wearing cinched black overcoats and jackets with leather panelled detailing around the collars, paired with blush coloured silk tops and high-waisted tailored black trousers. Leather came in all colours and forms, featuring on boxy tops in forest green and pirate red, as well on sharply cut trenches and fiercely matching skirt-suits.


Chain-mail was another key player in this compelling show, seen in the shape of fluid armour-like dresses cascading down models’ bodies in classic silver, emerald green and mermaid purple. Appropriately, the designer chose to add a portion of symbolism as a side course to this captivating sartorial feast, using the calla lily, a Roman sign of lust, as his chosen print for the season and applying it to  sumptuous silk trouser-suits in repetitive motifs, as well as in oversized forms along wide collars and across cinched waist pencil skirts.


Focusing on a colour palette made up primarily of sultry black, purple and green, with occasional appearances of gold and white, the designer closed the show with a brilliant display of sharp eveningwear, featuring low cut dresses with dinner jacket collars, a soft shaped cape with silver threaded trims and a boxy, 70s inspired silver jacket paired with high waisted satin trousers cropped at the ankle to finish.


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Posted by: Leja Gojkovic


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