Back to Black : What is the enduring appeal of black in fashion?
By Jessica Fell

Whilst there are regular proclamations each season that such and such a colour is “the new black”, I find myself doubting the conviction behind these statements. The universal truth is that black is an enduring constant in fashion, in an industry of such fickleness, this dedication to a singular colour is surely something to be celebrated.
'If black were an element, it would be Carbon... Ubiquitous, versatile and compatible with all of its relatives.'
If put under scrutiny, black appears to be remarkably indefinable. When this colour (or indeed lack of colour) is embodied within a garment it can evoke a diverse range of moods, be it timeless sophistication,  powerful austerity , anonymity or resonant beauty.

fashion156 asked a collection of industry insiders if they would have a go at defining the indefinable and questioned just why it is that  black continues to seduce the world of fashion season after season?


"Modernist has a dark side to it and we wanted to really express that. Black, to us, represents control and seduction. It's one of our signature colours."

- Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones, Designers, Modernist


“Here's my favourite [black] quote, not mine sadly:
"My garments invariably reflect the colour of my moods. Black imparts a feeling of dignity, pathos and inapproachableness."  - Comments of a Countess, 1901.”
                                                                               
- Carolyn Massey, Designer


“I see black and white as having the same magnitude, but in opposite directions…If black were an element, it would be Carbon, (number 6 on the periodic table) Ubiquitous, versatile and compatible with all of its relatives. As carbon is the basis of all life, Black is the basis of colour in fashion.”

- Liam Fahy, footwear designer, Winner of this years Fashion Fringe shoe initiative


“Black - Sophisticated, intriguing, deep, beautiful skin.”

- Lee Lapthorne, On|Off Director and Founder


“Simply sexy in any way...”

- Bernard Chandran, Designer


“A timeless classic colour that crosses gender [and] that can feminize or masculate a design”

- Elliott J. Freize and Khalid Al Qasimi , Designers, Qasimi


“Black is great, [it] makes you look thin and camouflages dirt. what more can you want from a colour!”

- Kattis Bjork and Sophie McElligott, Designers, Bjork & McElligott


“A LBD is an iconic fashion staple and a must have in every woman's wardrobe. Of course I now want to sustain the momentum and produce a certain number of black dresses every season, but I don't want to be limited to just one garment...The LBD should really have timeless qualities, but I always design it in a modern way, so its not 'just a black dress' ,there is a lot of thought behind the cut, the way I incorporate draping and paneling to flatter a woman's body.”

- Osman Yousefzada, Designer


“Silhouettes in black look like a shadow. It emphasizes the shape of the body.”

- Inbar Spector, Designer


“For me black is just another colour- but it's always good with some sparkle.”
                                                                  
- Sophie Hulme, Designer


“Black has lots of qualities: it can be ancient and futuristic, organic and artificial, visceral and dark or [the] sign of a new beginning.”

- Olah Gyarfas, designer for Rozalb de Mura


“I think in black. I design in black. I see everything and I want to paint it black. It’s an affliction. It’s a demon I wrestle with every season and it always wins. My heart is now black.”

- Jean-Pierre Braganza, Designer
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