Given the high improbability that the frenzy of a looming show season has passed you by, it will come as no surprise that it’s all hands to the pump for the fashion industry this month. As is the norm, the excitement – and pressure – is tangible, with predictions as to what London Fashion Week AW12 has in store a topic of conversation willingly adding to the hype.
For those industry insiders charged with creating a spectacle to outshine all others this season, the end product will be the result of months of planning, hard work and creative virtuosity, set to unveil and change the path of the new season trends. Like everyone enthralled by the phenomenon of Fashion Week, here at Fashion156 we couldn’t think of anything more fitting, or fascinating as a preamble to LFW than an insight into exactly just one of those creative minds.
We were fortunate enough to get a rare moment with Senior M∙A∙C Make-Up Artist Lesley Keane, to ask her the what’s, how’s, and why’s of London Fashion Week.
I imagine with the huge calendar event that is Fashion Week, a lot is involved for you as a make-up artist in preparing for the shows. How do you go about creating a finalized look for a runway and how does a collaborative relationship with the designer evolve?
Preparing for shows is always a manic time. The main thing for us is making sure our make-up kits are ready. We need to ensure they are stocked with almost every colour and texture that M∙A∙C do so that we are able to act on any requests from the designer. For instance, if the look calls for a purple glitter lip, we have to have the means to create that.
Designing make-up looks for a show happen at what we call a ‘fitting’, which is essentially a hair and make-up test held at the designer’s studio a couple of days prior to the show. It’s where the key make-up artist and hair stylist meet with the stylist and designer. We spend the next hour (to ten hours sometimes!) prepping looks inspired by the designer’s brief and vision – and don’t stop until all parties involved are happy. This can be an insane, creatively charged environment, but very exciting to be a part of and watch a trend develop.
Within the brief you are set for the aesthetic of a show, how do you go about ‘making it your own’ in terms of having artistic freedom?
Obviously as far as creative freedom goes you have to work within the realms of the designer’s style and vision. At the end of the day it’s about the designer and clothing, so you really have as much creative freedom as the designer and stylist allows you.
However it is also important to allow your own style and signature to show through your make-up creation – this is where artistry and people skills come in. As a relationship develops so does trust and you get to negotiate different styles and push the boundaries further, this is when I’m most at ease as I feel more ownership and pride in the outcome.
Each season are you aware of the pressure to bring something new and unique to the event? Is there a conscious decision to innovate or is the creative process more organic?
Mostly the process is organic, there are so many new colours, textures and inspirations flying about that it’s easy to get carried away; however we have to notice any similarities or repetitions and eventually categorise these to create a trend or a story. It’s amazing though how almost instantly this can happen. Yes, it has to be innovative and new each season, as repetition breeds boredom, however, I do think it’s important to bring it to the level of the consumer and I like how M∙A∙C categorise it into a skin, eye or lip trend – that way it’s easier to translate to the general public.
How do you evolve as an artist to keep up with trends or is it not something you think about?
I think it’s vital as a make-up artist to be aware of trend and youth culture. In M∙A∙C, it’s fantastic as you are working in the forefront and understand a trend as it is happening. But also, it’s important to be true to yourself and adapt the trends to your own style.
Then conversely do you think there are ‘golden rules’ or eternally ‘relevant’ looks that will appear time and time again?
Yes there are looks that return however there is always a modern take on it. I think the ‘golden rule’ is for it to be aesthetically pleasing to the eye. It has to be beautiful or it has failed, no matter how ground breaking the artistic story is behind the look.
Which shows from Fashion Week’s past have inspired or impressed you as an artist?
I am always inspired by a show no matter how understated or dramatic the outcome is. Alex Box as a make-up artist is always ground-breaking in her ideas. I particularly loved the architecture eye-liner that she created for Gareth Pugh at his SS12 show. I thought it was so simple yet utterly beautiful to look at and fitted perfectly into Gareth Pugh’s style.
Are there any key products or tools you will be using this AW to achieve the looks that are going to be big this season? Any advice on what to invest in to stay ahead?
I think the main products that we will be using and focusing on this season are skin care. There is a huge focus on the process of prepping and priming the skin to make it look luxurious with the use of products like the M∙A∙C Moisture Infused Serum, the Care Blend Oils and Mineralize Skin Care Range. This season definitely seems to be more about hydration and plumping. Also, the technology of skin highlighters to add radiance like the M∙A∙C Lustre Drops, and powders that create a new even surface like the Mineralize Skin Finishes. For me, that’s the magic behind the makeup.
Is there a ‘Holy Grail’ for you in terms of a London designer you would love to work with?
I always enjoy a Vivienne Westwood show, I love how Val Garland stays true to the Westwood story, but puts an amazing spin on it.. When the lights go down and the show starts, the incredible mix of music, styling, hair and make-up, make every hair on your body stand on end and you remember why you wanted to work in fashion. I’m also looking forward to seeing Simone Rocha’s collection this season. Her clothes are always so beautiful and she’s an Irish girl like me, so I would love to work with her!
Image Source: M.A.C.
