OUR LFW INSIDER – DESIGNER DAVID LONGSHAW

By DAVID LONGSHAW

‘Fashion Weeks a coming, fashion weeks a coming, watch out look around it’s coming to town…….tra la la la la la la, tis the season…’

‘Chloe are you seriously singing ‘fashion weeks a coming’ to the miss remembered theme tune of a soft drink manufacturers Christmas advert?’

‘Yep, what’s your point? I’m excited! It’s finally here a whole month of uninterrupted, undiluted, unbelievable fashion frivolity (or minimalism depending on the trends). It’s the most wonderful time of the year…..’

‘That’s great but why so Christmassy with your tunes?’

‘Well it is the Autumn/Winter collections we’re just about to see!’

‘It’s always an exciting time seeing the collections. There are big changes a foot this season with London Fashion Week being squeezed by Milan. Everyone is competing to be heard so there should be some stellar collections. We have to be careful though that we don’t miss one of our favourites because we go to see a label we quite like who’s showing just before in the wrong city. We could end up missing Prada or Holly Fulton’

‘Noooooooooooooooo they’re not showing on the same day are they?’

‘I haven’t got a clue. I haven’t got around to checking the schedules properly yet. But there could be problems’

‘Oh boo! Still I shan’t let it spoil fashion month, there’s too much excitement to be had. With collections from the new arrivals to London Fashion Week including Moschino ‘Cheap & Chic’, Stella doing a special collection (as it’s the Olympic year and she’s providing the GB costumes and kits through Adidas), there’s the NEWGEN newcomers like Simone Rocha, the new Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit and One to Watch winners collections and most exciting of all the St Martins (MA) show, so many new ideas and always the excitement of spotting who’s going to be the next star. That show feeds the industry (along with the RCA (MA) showing later in the year). With not only exciting new labels that are set to keep LFW thriving but also with a supply of designers who go on to work as part of the teams of the big houses in Milan, Paris and New York, for labels from Lanvin to Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga and Donna Karen, the list stretches on and on. These are the talents who will be shaping fashion in one way or another for years to come.’

‘I know. I can’t wait!’

‘As it’s the preview issue does that mean we can ask some of our favourite fashion insiders how they’re feeling about fashion week?’

‘It most certainly does and we get to preview David Longshaw’s new collection as well.’

‘Oh how scrumptious, talking of scrumptious do you have any food? I could go for some chicken, do you have any chicken, or ham, I wouldn’t mind some ham.’

‘How did you get on to food? You always manage to turn everything to food!’

‘Well I like food and I thought someone ought to be eating at fashion week as most of those fashion lot won’t be. Anyway shall we get on with some questions?’

Questions:

1)What is the hardest thing about the frenetic fashion week schedules?

2)Which shows/designers are you most looking forward to seeing?

Jessica Bumpus (fashion features editor)

‘The hardest thing: finding time to sleep! And fitting in seeing all the great designers’ shows and presentations. Huishan Zhang – I’ve been excited by him ever since I saw his CSM BA show. And Antoni & Alison who I have been a fan of since I was about 11!’

Maude (the fashion fabric mouse) Editor-in-Chief Maudezine ‘the future fashion bible’

‘I can’t wait to see the St Martin’s (MA) show and it will be such a treat for the students to know a fashion legend such as myself is in the audience. I’m excited to see Kirsty Ward, David Longshaw, Prada, Miu Miu, Comme, Marc Jacobs, Alistair Carr for Pringle, The Merit and Ones to Watch at VFS, Calvin Klein, Balenciaga….the list goes on! It’s also a great time for me to connect with my fashion fans on the front row. It’s nice to give something back.’

Jean Annan-Lewin (Stylist)

Excitement: I find Fashion East and the menswear day pretty exciting

Stressful: hearing people say don’t you know who I am =gross

Alison Elwin (stylist)

I am one of those stylists who loves fashion week. The reason for this is that I love the buzz of working on a show. I love the thought process of creating the look for the show, the casting, the fittings, picking the music. The whole package really. Most stylists I know think I am crazy, but the relationship with a designer is so intimate that you really get to know their intricate thoughts on why something is like it is, from the size of a button to the colour of a thread. You see it from such a different angle than when you attend a show, which I get similar feelings from but for different reasons.

Q)How are you/do you deal with the tight deadlines coming up to fashion week?

Kirsty Ward (designer)

‘I don’t cope. I become a moany cryie mess who dreams of sleep and weekends off! Then after fashion week I forget about all the sleepless nights and I’m raring to get going with the next season!’

Manuela Dack (Designer)

Strict organisation. We make a giant calendar on one wall of the studio in the lead up to fashion week so we can see exactly what has to be done and when. I also rely on Skype a lot as I don’t always have time to go for meetings It’s to be able to share screens or show someone images and garments instantly without leaving the studio.

What challenges are there for you and your label coming up to fashion week?

Financially it’s a nightmare, especially this season, because all orders for production, sampling and a million other bills have to be paid in the same few weeks. Also this season is very short so finding the time to fit all in and juggle everything that needs doing is a challenge.

David Longshaw (designer)

Lots of lists, lots of diet coke, lots of drawings and photos of fittings to make sure the collection actually works together.

Ekaterina Kukhareva (Designer)

Always prepare ahead and plan everything in advance!

 

Q) As an illustrator, who illustrates ‘live at fashion shows’ how do you find the pressure and speed?

Andy Bumpus (Illustrator)

It can be quite intense. As soon as the lights come up and the models start to walk I just start scribbling trying to take down as much information as possible. Focussing on the details, movement and overall impact of a collection. I use a big pen, scrawl over the page like a child and enjoy the show.

I’m looking forward to drawing Georgia Hardinge.

 

Q) As the head of a PR company how do you deal with seating plans and the whole circus and politics of putting on a show?

Catherine Morris (Managing Director Iroquois PR)

I would say that it is like a big bang of creative energy! It is naturally nerve racking as you try to tactfully seat the right people in the right seats but it is also enervating as well and the time seems to go by in a quick blur – like a fashion Road Runner


WELCOME TO

The magazine that showcases new emerging
fashion talent alongside the established.

Sign up below to be kept informed of all our new issues, the trends that are emerging, exclusive fashion films, and the very latest discoveries in fashion & the arts.

You will also be the first to hear about unique competitions and all Fashion156's developments.

I agree to the terms and conditions