FASHION156 - The Tailored Issue / Trends / Focus

FASHION
TRENDS
- Want
  From the High Street to the High End we take a ...
- Focus
  SLOUCH TAILORING This season and beyond, designers ...
- Forecast
  THE NEW SKIRT The fascination with the skirt over ...
- Street Style
  We look to the street for inspiration on how ...
BEAUTY
- Thisworks Products
  From a brand that claims ‘this works’, expect ...
- Beauty Editorial
- Long Story
  With the tenets of the minimalist aesthetic heralding ...
GROOMING
- Nickel Products
  Nickel’s range of skincare for men champions simple, ...
- Grooming Editorial
- Grooming Trends
  When you hear the words minimalist androgyny your ...
FEATURES
- Blurred Boundaries
  The beginning of twentieth-century Paris saw ...
- The Great Mind is Androgynous
  Androgyny has been something of a hot topic of ...
- Less Is More
  “Less is more.” You’ve probably ...
- Veiled Identity
  In this egalitarian age it is almost a given that ...

DAILY BLOG
- Graphic Artist – Deskriptiv
  21/05/12
  When I was playing around on Deskriptiv’s ...
- Artist – Zhou Fan
  21/05/12
  Above is a combination of series of contemporary Chinese ...
- Fashion Designer – Celestial – SS12
  21/05/12
  Mexican designer Celestial creates an unlikely hybrid ...
- Photographer – Michael Sterling Eaton
  19/05/12
  Michael Sterling Eaton has been categorised rather ...
COLLECTIONS
- Miu Miu – Paris Fashion Week AW12 Womenswear
  Miu Miu’s AW12 collection pumped colourful swirls ...
- Louis Vuitton – Paris Fashion Week AW12 Womenswear
  Opulence was the key and travelling by train the ...
- Paul & Joe – Paris Fashion Week AW12 Womenswear
  Paul & Joe’s Creative Director Sophie ...
- Paco Rabanne – Paris Fashion Week AW12 Womenswear
  Following the re-launch of Paco Rabanne in September ...
SHOP
FILM
ARCHIVE

TRENDS / FOCUS

SLOUCH TAILORING

This season and beyond, designers are styling their looks with a relaxed hand, building upon the tenets of minimalist tailoring to create a silhouette that is altogether more unstructured. The key here is all in the length – and we’re talking trouser legs, shirt sleeves and even jacket cuts. This is oversized for S/S12, but it’s about taking clean, minimalist lines and giving them volume.

Trousers as seen at Celine, Chloe and Acne Resort 2012 showcased these exaggerated lengths, taking the aesthetic of masculine tailoring in womenswear and authenticating the look with flowing trousers that evoked the oversized nonchalance of the ‘boyfriend cardigan’ of season’s past. At Celine, undone cuffs that hung below the wrist gave the impression of a borrowed man’s shirt, but sheer paneling details gave a feminine edge.

Across menswear collections, oversized pieces dominated the catwalk, where voluminous shorts and trousers teamed up with elongated blazers. The slouch aesthetic took precedence from all angles, with Miharayasuhiro and Yohji Yamamoto crafting trousers and shorts that enveloped the frame with swathes of loose-fitting fabric.

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