WINTER MAKE-UP TECHNIQUES

By JASMIN WATTS

“Gold Glitter and Gloss!” – Winter Season Make-up

Whether rather perversely or not in such economic times, the month of December (or, if we’re honest, December and the several weeks preceding it) will be a time of excess. The heady escapism of a holiday ingrained with glut and indulgence may leave behind something of a morality-hangover, but as with all guilty pleasures, there are highs as well as lows.

When party season comes bounding into our lives wrapped in tinsel and soaked in warm wine, it’s practically regulation to push aside sensibilities and enjoy a temporary style overhaul. Rich colours, metallics and lashings of glitter are de rigueur – ’tis the season to be jolly after all. Taking ‘modern black tie’ as one of the inspirations behind this issue’s Fashion Editorial, make-up artist Nadine Elias created luxurious winter beauty with a high fashion twist. I caught up with Nadine to ask how she coined the look, as well as finding out what modern party season make-up means to her and the tips and products to get there.

In our main Winter Editorial, the three models showcased different looks interpreting the ‘modern black tie’ theme. How did you approach the brief initially?

I wanted to play up either the eyes or the lips to keep the looks fresh and modern yet keeping with the theme. Key looks for the shoot were molten metallic eyes in golds and burnt copper, wine stained lips and radiant skin. So that’s where the ideas for golden-bronze shadow with a deep burgundy lip, graphic black winged liner teamed with nude lipstick and red metallic eyes came from.

Is there a look from the shoot that you think could be a ‘key’ look for winter?

I would say that the burnt golden eye and burgundy lip can be tweaked to suit your style and skin tone, so that would be my choice.

Easy to re-create?

Yes, it’s actually an easy one to achieve – it’s all about layering different finishes.
Take two shadows – one matte and one metallic – and layer the metallic shadow on top, in the middle of the eyes to catch the light and add impact. Your wine-stained lip can be as dark as you want.

The elusive perfect red lipstick is still on my Christmas list. I really liked the plum tones in the shoot – any recommendations? 

I love Givenchy Rouge Interdit in ‘Black Plum’ and Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in ‘Black Cherry’. Fill in your lips with a lip liner of the same colour first for extra staying power too.
These deeper reds take on quite a dramatic, almost gothic/romantic feel, is that something you’ve seen in winter beauty trends? 
Like we see on the catwalk in the AW shows, the colours change slightly into these darker tones. I think there’s something mysterious about winter that allows us to be a bit more daring with make-up! Darker and richer eyeshadows, and lips in plums and pretty berry colours definitely work well.

Christmas, ‘party season’ make-up must be another change in direction. What does it entail to you?

Gold, glitter and gloss! Christmas really is the time to shine. Give your usual make-up look a twist and experiment with different textures or colours. Try a red lipstick, swap your matte eyeshadow for a metallic or layer glitter over your usual smokey eye.

Do you have a favourite, ‘go-to’ Christmas look?
Every Christmas I do a ‘red glitter lip’. Choose your favourite red lipstick and apply a gloss or lip balm over the top. Carefully pat red glitter over this layer using a small brush. It just adds a bit of sparkle and fun to your usual red lipstick without going over the top.

I’m sold! Any other key trend predictions for winter?

The red lip has to be in there. You can update this classic look by experimenting with different textures – glossy or matte, creamy or metallic. I think the iconic 60’s look is here to stay for a while too. It can be interpreted in many ways – whether you paint on your lashes or want to give the beehive a go, the 60’s are really having a moment right now.

 

Retro make-up is quite fitting as a nod to tradition at Christmas! Are there looks that you think will always inspire you?

I still love the make-up look from Prada AW09 created by Pat McGrath – rich metallic eyes and a neutral lip. The bold lips at Giles and House of Holland AW 2011 were stunning too.

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