Around this time of year outerwear increasingly becomes not just a necessity but a focal point. It is also the season of luxe, rich fabrics and all that glitters, as our penchant for indulgence and our magpie eye sharpens. Formality is embraced if not demanded while fashion gets practical with oversized knits, gloves, scarves, hats and coats become wardrobe essentials. Naturally the advent of these extra layers and accessories effects the direction of grooming, as the face and hair becomes increasingly shrouded by materials.
Reflecting upon the subtle yet arresting bursts of colour that invigorated Winter’s typical greyscale and the boyish hair cuts, one cannot help but be lured into the world of the snow sports; in particular the ski aesthetic of the 60′s and 70′s. During this time period ski wear and the sport itself was revolutionized from the emergence of freestyle ski to the advent and demand for functional yet fashionable winter resort wear climbed alongside disposable incomes.
The sun-kissed blonde boys at Gucci combined with the pragmatism of Neil Barrett’s focus on performance wear instantaneously brings forth glimmers of Robert Redford in ‘Downhill Racer’, as the ‘All American boy’ challenges man. While Prada, Kenzo and Bottega Veneta return us to the Harper’s Bazaar and L’Officiel editorials devoted to the slopes in the 70′s, featuring brands such as ellesse, who brought forth the rise of the jet pant. Lanvin’s private detective ushered through imagery of Cary Grant in Charade with Balenciaga and Adam Kimmel dictating the next direction of his ski jacket, adding length to his classic 50′s side parting and giving it some 70′s volume and definition.
Shielding oneself from the harsh elements is always a primary concern when tackling the mountainous snowy terrain and fittingly facial coverings come in to play and eyewear becomes a prerequisite, shaping the face and the art of grooming. Asger Juel Larsen and Viktor & Rolf AW11 created funnel neck jackets and coats that would impress Steve McQueen and The Beatles in their ‘Help’ days. Thom Browne and Band of Outsiders AW11 and Balenciaga and Baartmans and Siegel SS12 took the reigns in deciding the direction of sunglasses both during and apres ski.
Thom Browne’s exaggerated teashades rested upon pink stained faces while the obligatory glasses of nonchalance – aviators, framed visages, adding to Band of Outsiders’ effortless ease. Balenciaga focused on ski photochromic goggles territory, as Baartmans and Siegel relied upon a more sophisticated take on Ray-Bans for defense against UV rays, protecting a milky white complexion.
Of course these decades don’t have the monopoly on directional ski wear. The 80′s and 90′s ensured colour remained on the slopes, upping the ante in fluorescent shades and volume. Considering the Fresh Prince was an AW touchstone for Agi & Sam it is perhaps no surprise that looks resembling Will and Carlton’s colourful 90′s take on snow attire from the Banks’ annual ski trip inadvertently made an appearance in their collection and followed through to grooming as they translated the high top fade for contemporary hair styling. Sibling continued the playful 90′s vibe transforming Pure Evil’s panda into a knitted ski mask, bringing a guerrilla vibe to winter warmers and leaving the grooming rituals hidden.
Shaun Samson SS12 and Band of Outsiders AW11 took things more extreme creating looks that would befit snowboarders on and off the course. Headbands channelling the Californian extreme sports scene that casually encased long flowing locks seemed made for Shaun White. Band of Outsiders hid surfer hair under woolly cum beanie hats and cossacks that flirted with a looser form. Galliano and Margiela plunged AW into vast plains of the Arctic circle. Literally covering them in snow Galliano gave his rugged men beard and hair extensions in the form of Inuit braids. While Margiela’s unkempt man with untamed curls resembled the explorers of past and the adventurers and hikers of today.
For most of us who retreat to the snowy mountain terrain this festive season it is a given that chalet life will be a formative part of the experience. This setting heralds fair isle and warrants 40′s and grunge reinterpretations as Junya Watanabe illustrated for AW11 adding prim and polished touches to disheveled grooming. Dunhill too referenced conservative Christmas knits, injecting street attitude into ordered looks.
This season whether hibernating indoors, dressed in cabin ready jumpers or embracing the action and adventure that beckons outdoors, the ski resort aesthetic provides ample scope for exploring classic Hollywood, preppy grooming and counter/youth culture leanings simultaneously.
